Choosing the right fly line can be a complicated decision for you as a consumer. Below we guide you to a successful purchase.
On your reel, regardless of whether the reel in question is on a two-handed rod or a one-handed rod, there are always at least two parts, you have backing and you have some form of fly line. You attach the backing to the spool of your fly reel and then you attach the fly line to the backing. What you then attach to the fly line is determined by the type of fly line you have chosen, the method you fish and whether you fish with a one-handed or two-handed rod.
Choosing the right line for your single handed fly rod can be a very simple task, but it can be a bit more complicated. The easy way is to first choose what density you want on your fly line, should it be floating, sinking, intermediate or maybe your line should have several densities. Once you have answered this question, you can move on to deciding which taper you want on the rope, the most common is WF (weight forward, a taper where much of the weight is distributed at the front) but also DT (double-tapered, the line looks the same at both the front and back edge of the head , the weight is thus evenly distributed over the entire head ) . Then you must choose the class on the line, here it is usually enough to choose the same class as on your rod. This was the easy way.
If you want to make it more complicated and find the perfect line for your rod and for your purpose, then a little more research is required. Start by following the three steps from the "easy way" but then think about what you are going to use the line for, do you want to cast long, with precision, under-glove cast in tight spaces or maybe a line adapted for salt water, there is basically a line for everything in today's market. The most common way to adapt fly lines with different characteristics is to change its taper, where a line for underhand casts should preferably have a short and front-heavy head that loads your rod easily, a line for fine presentations has a soft front taper that allows your line to land softly on the surface of the water and the list goes on. But of course there is an easy way here too, contact us and we will help you, we have generations of experience to share.
Choosing the right line for your two-handed fly rod is not always the easiest task. In order to choose the right line, you must know how you want the line to act, what size and depth of water you intend to fish and, of course, what rod the line should be used for. Two-handed fly lines can be divided into three categories, you have the most common Skagit and Scandi, and then the slightly more traditional spey lines.
A little bit about the different joint types:
Skagit lines are characterized by short head s with an aggressive front taper. The short head and its taper allow these types of lines to easily flip over larger flies and heavier sinkers. The short head also means that you don't have to form as big a D-loop to load the rod, and thus a good choice when you need to cast in tight spaces. To choose the right line weight for your rod, you go by head 's weight excluding the tip.
Scandilinor is a more graceful line with longer head . With a scandi line you cast tight loops, make advanced load combinations and long casts. If the flies s become too heavy, however, the line may have difficulty turning over all the way. The lines come in floating, sinking and mixed density.
The slightly less common speylines have a long head , longer than a scandiline. These lines usually require more from the caster for a successful result.
As always, if you need some extra guidance and recommendations, get in touch and we'll help you out.
Here you will find tips for all your two-hand lines, floating or sinking, for scandi/skagit and also replaceable tips for your versiti lines. Being able to easily change the tip of your line has changed the way we fish. Being able to fish a slightly shallower stroke with an intermediate tip and then easily switch to a faster-sinking tip when required.
There are two types of shooting lines, without coating, which is basically a regular monofilament line, and then there are shooting lines with coating, which feels just like a thin fly line.
A monofilament shooting line gives rise to extremely low friction against the traces and in the air, something that gives you long casts.
A coating line gives you more control, less tangles and that it usually floats. The floating property can be practical as it is also possible to mend and adjust in the current, just like the regular line. Note, however, that a coated shooting line may reduce the length of the cast slightly due to slightly more friction.